Bahia Agua Verde to Loreto

Bahia Agua Verde is simply put....stunning. There are several beaches to explore, and fantastic snorkeling and kayaking. The only down side to this place.....is the killing field/fields we happened to stumble upon during our exploration. We found a small hammerhead skull, and Jack was thrilled, thinking it was a rare find. We walked a little further and were shocked at what we saw...... at least 100 or more heads of baby blue sharks, mako sharks, and hammer head sharks all over the place. Obviously from the local fishermen. We were not sure what they were using them for. Maybe bait....but it was a sad sight to see so many who have lost their life at very young ages. We left Bahia Agua Verde after only one night, once again in search of a safe weather harbor. The winds are coming from the north as I type this from Puerto Escondido, and I just clocked a 37 knot gust. These winds are not normal for this time of year we have been hearing from other cruisers. Hopefully this will be the last blow from the north and we can get on with it. We had to pass up many great spots due to weather so far. There are so many islands and places to lay down a hook and explore, that I am beggining to think it is impossible to see everything here in just one season. I have not spent much time in the desert before this, and I have to say that I love it. Really Really love it. I love how the ocean meets the desert and the color of the water from the white sand is the clearest most beautiful water these eyes have ever seen. I love exploring empty beaches and waking up and falling asleep to just the sound of the ocean waves. I love seeing free range cattle and goats and burrows just cruising around. I have never felt so free and open. To top it all off, the sun sets and sun rises stop me dead in my tracts every day.

We rented a car yesterday and drove to the town of Loreto. The only way to get there is by taxi, or rental car, which costs less. Or you could hitch hike.....which I was all for, but Patrick isn't feeling as free as I am yet......It is an adorable small town, with many beautiful buildings and home to the very very first mission. So I thought this would be a good opportunity for Jack to do a report on the mission, since I know his classmates back at home are doing the same right now in 4th grade. You can link to his blog to the right of here in a day or so when he finishes it up. He loves comments, ( and so do I!) so feel free to drop him a line or two. Afterwards we walked around town and found a market that carries many imported products. We picked up some brie cheese, really good butter, chocolate chips, wine...from California!! and pita chips. These are all things you can not find here.....very often, and when you do, well it just makes you happy happy happy. Jack and I baked chocolate chip cookies when we returned to Santosha, and it was heaven! Tomorrow some friends we met back in La Cruz on S/V Hanna Crew are picking us up and taking us hiking and back to their home in Loreto. They moved here...and I can understand why. Henry is Jacks age, and they really hit it off so Jack is very excited about seeing him again. Looks like the wind is starting to die down a bit...finally, so time to suit up and jump in.

La Paz to San Evaristo or a very close call to complete bliss

So here's what's been going on aboard Santosha this past week. We departed La Paz and headed out of the narrow sandy channel, when both of our engines died. Patrick quickly got one going, and then it died again.......we had no choice and had to drop our anchor right in the middle of the channel. This channel is the only way in or out of the La Paz area. Lucky for us, it was not a busy day, so no other boats were coming or going. While he tried to get the engines started, the wind kicked up, and we started to drift at a rather fast pace towards a rocky cliff. It was clear that our anchor was dragging, and at this point it was full on panic mode. we had no way to control Santosha and we were moments away from being slammed into the rocky cliff. Then out of no where.....a fishing dinghy pulls up and tosses us a line, and tows us away from the rocks and into deep water. This angel, named Enricko, Ricko for short, saved our ass. The only photo I snapped was of him pulling us to safety, but I so wish I would have taken a photo of his face, which is forever burned into my long term memory. Had he not come along, this post would be all about how our cruising days are over, as Santosha is now at the bottom of the sea.....any way, back to the story.......So we set anchor far away from the channel and the rocky cliff side and waved goodbye to Ricko. Patrick worked for over an hour and finally got both engines up and running. The fuel lines had air in them, which happens when you change the fuel filters, which he did back in the marina. It usually bleeds right off, but on this day...for what ever reason.....that was not the case. I have never been so scared in all my life. It was horrible. So with our knees shaking we set off for a 7 hour crossing to our next spot, Isla Sanfrancisco, realizing we would not make it there until dark now. We arrived around 9pm and it was windy as all hell. We pulled on into this wide bay and set the anchor in complete darkness, since there was no moon to help us out. The swells were hitting us all night long, and the only one who slept was Jack. Having each and every last fight or flight nerve damaged from our near death experience earlier in the day, Patrick and I could not sleep. We took turns keeping anchor watch. Once the sun came up, we looked around with bloodshot eyes, and we were amazed at the beauty that surrounded us. The Sea of Cortez is breath taking. The wind was still blowing strong, and the weather report indicated that it was going to keep building for the next few days, so our stay here was cut short. We pulled up the anchor and headed to a safe North wind anchorage just 1 hour away. As forecasted, the winds kicked into overtime and blew 25 to 35 knots for days. San Evaristo offered good protection, and we enjoyed 4 blissful days of hiking, snorkeling, kayaking, and shelling ( looking for cool shells). Jack made a few fantastic wind chimes for his art class when we returned to the boat with the goods we had gathered. San Evaristo is a small small small fishing village, where free range cattle and burrows roam freely. No stores, or provisions, but they did have a school we visited and took a few supplies too. They were so grateful for our offering, and allowed me to snap their photo. Note the class size of 4! Jack was shocked at the houses they live in, which were mostly ply wood, and palapa style roofs. It was a good teaching moment for both of us. We talked about perspective. While they don't have material possessions and really just the basics to survive, they are so rich in community and connection to family, each other, and nature. They don't participate in the rat race treadmill or have to deal with the 405 freeway. From an outsiders view, they seem to live a slow paced, very happy, meaningful life.

We spent hours and hours hiking each and every trail we could find. We came across a few different grave sites. Some had dates, some were just mounds of shells. One man lived to 98 years old. All this fresh air, slow paced life, and fresh fish will do that to you.

Ahhhhhhh La Paz

What a great little city. I love everything about this place. Even the trash cans that are placed all over La Paz are adorable. (Love the organico and inorganico labels) The Eco-ness of this city is evident as you stroll down the malecon, a long walking/running/biking path which fronts the most inviting sea I have ever seen. We are staying in Marina Palmira, and it too is really great. It is quiet, and walking distance to down town, an awesome little coco stand ( which Jack and I attend daily) and a taco stand that has the freshest fish tacos I have ever had.....for a mere 19 pesos each......about $1.25 U.S. and two will fill you up! Yes, I am fully intergrated into the Mexico way of life now folks. Eating from street taco vendors is my favorite meal out....seriously, we have spent some crazy money in restaurants for just ok food. Nothing beats the freshness and flavor of a good street taco....or the price. Also, as I have acclimated to my surroundings these past few months, I have stopped soaking our vegies in diluted bleach or microdyne solution. ( and it is liberating!) I figure, I had better let my body get used to this environment, and just stop the battle. So, I just wash them off with a bit of soap and water, just like we do in the USA......and none of us have gotten sick once.

It has been a busy busy week here. Marinas for us tend to be about work, and not a lot of play. We get our laundy done, wash and restock the boat, Fix anything that needs fixing, then try to get back out to sea as fast as we can.

La Paz is one of two places in the Sea of Cortez that you can stock up on provisions, so we are gearing up here for our three month exploration of this pristine place on earth. On top of working on the boat, Patrick and Jack are getting certified to dive, so they will now be official finally, and ready to dive with the Whale Sharks that visit this area. Me? I am happy as a clam with my fins, mask and snorkel floating on the surface, thank you very much. We also just finished booking and making our escape plans for the summer....because it just gets too blazing hot here. We will park Santosha in Marina Palmira and head out of Mexico at the end of June. We will be trading our Pesos in for Rupees...... Bali, Indonesia, here we come. I found a great two bedroom Villa 10 minutes from the city of Ubud. I have dreamed of traveling to Bali for years, and since we are living our dream on this trip, it only seems fitting to add that in......We will also make a quick 10 day pit stop to our home port in Thousand Oaks, to get Jacks school books for next year, and to love up my two grown boys Alex and Blake....and Blakes girl friend Natalie, who I just adore beyond words. Oh how I miss these three beings.......But back to present time... While Jack and Patrick have been attending diving class, I have had plenty of time to myself, which is such a rare and odd thing now. This city is completely safe to explore solo, so I have walked from one end to the other, a few times now, enjoying the sights and sounds and flavors ( taco stand!!) of this Mexican city. They finish up their last open ocean dive on Wednesday, and then we will head out to sea as we spend the next three glorious months exploring the Sea of Cortez.